Trip to Tokat

Kitchen Friends spent three days last month on a culinary tour in Tokat, where the Black Sea meets Central Anatolia. Known for its fertile soil and, in particular, its vineyard culture, Tokat is famous for its cuisine—which features dishes made with grape leaves—including Tokay kebab, various dolma dishes, and bat; as you head toward Zile, it’s also known for its varieties of pekmez, pestil, sweet tarhana, and, of course, the Narince grape. Tokat, the homeland of Narince—one of Turkey’s most important native white grape varieties—is also where Diren Wines was founded. The Friends of the Kitchen were treated to a special luncheon among the vineyards at the Kazova Vasfi Diren Agricultural Enterprise. Staying at Devecihan—a caravanserai on the Silk Road that has been renovated to offer a stylish atmosphere—the Friends of the Kitchen experienced Tokat, a region known not only for its grapes but also for its fertile plains yielding a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, as well as Karayaka lamb—a product with a protected geographical indication and a member of the Anatolian Flavors Inventory—they sampled the Tokat Kebab at Saklıbahçe, whose primary purpose is to reach the “dirty pide” beneath it. The lamb meat, garlic, eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes—along with tail fat on top—was hung on the vertical iron rod in the center of the hearth. After cooking over the embers of oak wood on either side, it was served at the table accompanied by the region’s much-loved rosehip drink. In addition to the Tokat kebab—which holds a geographical indication—the plum, lentil, and fava bean dolmas tasted at the Emirseyit Erzak Women’s Cooperative also left a lasting impression on the palate. Also served here is “sweet tarhana,” made from grape molasses—one of the desserts beloved in Tokat, enjoyed alongside tea and coffee. Like the “tırtıl” dessert, the “gömlek kadayıf”—served at the Tokat Gastronomy Center after “pehlili pilav” and lamb shank—is another dessert unique to the region. During their trip to Tokat, the “Friends of the Kitchen” sampled the region’s special jams—from white lilies to elderberries—and tasted “domates öldürmesi” (a dish made with beef sausage and tomatoes) amidst the stunning natural scenery at Değirmen. They also learned how the mill operates during the season. After examining the colorful “elvan”-style woodblock prints at the Tokat Maturation Institute, the group shopped for pekmez, grape leaves, and rosehip marmalade at Taşhan. After visiting the Yağıbasan Madrasa, the Mevlevihane, the Clock Tower, and the Latifoğlu Mansion in the city center, we also visited the world-famous Ballıca Cave. At the end of the three days, we concluded this trip—the taste of which still lingers on our palates—with the hope of returning to Tokat again. With our thanks to everyone who contributed…